The Rosé King – Dúzsi Winery of Szekszárd
One could say, it was faith, that Tamás Dúzsi became a winery owner and winemaker. It all started in 1964, when Tamás joined the viticulture-winemaking high school class and right after graduation went on to study at the Horticultural University of Gyöngyös.
Today the family cultivates 60 hectares of vineyards around Szekszárd and all the family members are closely involved in production, marketing and distribution. Tamás Dúzsi Jr. – or as many call him, “Little Dúzsi”- the oldest son who followed his father´s footsteps, turned out to be also a viticulturist and winemaker himself. After graduating in Budapest, he went further on, studied in some of the most prestigious wine related universities of Europe.
He is very much open-minded and while he loved the precision and efficiency of the German wine studies, the internship and the research with the Rosé Research Centre in France, yet Portugal grew closest to his heart. “Here you have all the knowledge, but once you learned it, go out and use your brain and adapt it, otherwise forget about it…” – said Tamás, as he recalls his years in Lisbon. It was very much about the grape and the human nature, yet always balancing between tradition and innovation. Tamás starts to get in his element, when he discusses about experiments about fining agents, that are made out of non-allergen plants and he is quickly arguing both sides of the coin, giving endless examples about pros and cons.
The passion and endless research for answer are burning in his eyes, when he talks about wine, you do need a few minutes to make him get started, but once he hits the “sixth gear”, he will never stop.
The Dúzsi Winery became famous in Hungary for its rosé wines. When rosé was still not quite as popular as today, the Dúzsi family has already been producing it. Today they make 10 different rosés from single grape varieties to blends. This is as well started somewhat accidently. At one vintage the fermenting vat for the reds turned out to be too small and the first 20 hl rosé was born. But the secret of their rosé success lies in the details. They work with healthy grapes only, as there is no tannin or oak, which could cover up faults, they use smaller fermenting vats and keep the temperature below 16°C to maintain the fruity character. During the international experiment in Provence, they tested 17 different grape varieties for rosé and the Dúzsi Winery has sent there 140 kg of their own Kékfranko(s). They came first!
The terroir of Szekszárd is famous for rosé and red wine alike. It is this harmony, which makes the wines exciting and interesting. Never too heavy, but easy-to-drink, seductive wines with bright personality.
But what else is the Rosé King doing in Szekszárd?
Kadarka is a “native” grape, while hard to cultivate, for many people it resembles the elegance of Pinot Noir with perhaps less grace and tannin.
Kékfrankos, the leading variety -not only in Hungary, but also in the region- is a perfect partner in blends, as well as an alone entertainer, fine fruit with a lovely spiciness, a great all-rounder. It shows its greatness in single vineyards, such as in the Görögszó (Greek word), which got the name after the Greek orthodox monks, who cultivated the vines on the top of the hill. – HWH – Kielmayer Kristian
Photos from: http://www.duzsitamas.hu/